Pump Mounting.
Eberspacher recommend mounting the pump between 15 and 35 degrees from horizontal with the outlet higher than the inlet.
If the pump is below 15 degrees it may trap air bubbles and supply less fuel so usually fit it at about 30 degrees to allow for vehicles parking on a slope or for boats to tilt from horizontal.
The pump can also be mounted vertically, the amount of fuel pumped will be a few percent more so do a fuel quantity check to confirm it is still within specification.
Water in diesel fuel.
Diesel fuel will always contain some water when sold. As the fuel level or temperature changes air enters the tank through the vent, condensation then forms when the air cools increasing the water in the tank.
The water– fuel interface at the tank bottom is an environment that encourages biological growth which can clog filters and prevent fuel flow to the heater.
Diesel floats on top of water so pickup pipes should not reach the bottom of the tank.
If water is found in the fuel siphon it off from the lowest point of the tank until clear fuel is siphoned up.
Fuel Degradation.
Diesel fuel starts to deteriorate the moment it leaves the refinery. As it ages during storage, it creates particles and a black sludge that accumulate in the tank. The diesel visibly darkens.
Debris can be disturbed when new fuel is added or when fuel sloshes around in the tank.
The cetane value of the fuel also drops as it ages and can drop so low it will no longer ignite in the heater.
More information is in the Eberspacher technical bulletin 281, click here to view.
Priming the fuel supply
If the fuel pipes are empty the pump has to purge the air from them before fuel can reach the heater. With a thin pipe this often takes two start attempts, with a larger or far longer pipe it can take 5 or more restarts and up to 30 minutes to start.
Manual priming by dabbing temporary wires on a battery can be done but it can take a lot of pulses. As a comparison we estimate one start attempt on a D1LC can give over 300 pulses. An alternative idea is to use a car trafficator relay to pulse the pump.
Cold weather.
Fuel thickens as the temperature drops, if it combines with debris in the fuel filter it can restrict the fuel flow.
Any water trapped in the pump or filter can freeze and block the fuel feed and seize up the pump.
Water can be trapped in the exhaust pipe and freeze which blocks the exhaust gas flow. This can be a problem on boats where the outlet pipe is higher than the heater so condensation cannot drain. Also water may enter the exhaust from the outlet, either when the boat keels over or in large waves.
Some fuels do not perform well at low temperatures.
Fuel flow and Air leaks.
With transparent fuel pipe tiny air bubbles are usually visible in the fuel as it pulses towards the heater which can be a very useful diagnostic check on fuel flow. These bubbles are created by the pump action and are present even if there are no air leaks.
If more bubbles than those shown in the picture are present it indicates an air leak.
Larger bubbles can be due to a serious air leak but are usually caused by lack of fuel
The small quantity of fuel used means small air leaks in the pipe before the pump can reduce the amount of fuel pumped.
The pipe is under suction so no fuel will leak out to indicate problems. Leaks in the pipe after the pump can also be a problem.
Usual causes are holes in the rubber connecting pipes or badly sealed joints. If the rubber connecting pipe is leaking renew it together with the clamps, just tightening the bolts is often unreliable and the fault reappears.
We have found clamps have to be very tight to give a good seal but don't overtighten and sheer the bolts.
Too large internal diameter pipes can also give poor seals.